It’s no secret that my favorite things to crochet are clothes. Crocheted blankets are lovely and I plan to add at least a few to the blog but for now.. I’m all about the clothes! I wanted to make a sweater using corner to corner crochet, a technique used predominately for blankets with intricate patterns or graphgans.
I’ve seen a lot of sweaters with this v-striped design in the front and back and I have been dreaming of creating that look with crochet. By using C2C crochet I was able to make a sweater that not only has a great shape but also showcases that beautiful diagonal stripe that is unique to the corner to corner stitch.
I absolutely love everything about corner to corner. It’s one of those stitches that once you get started you can just go go go, no stopping to count or look back at the pattern instructions. Think wine, Netflix and mindless crochet. I mean it! C2C is a simple and quick stitch you’ll love.
Don’t worry if you’re new to C2C Ive included a detailed step by step tutorial on how to achieve this amazing look. Keep reading because I’v also included my favorite C2C resources.
Imagine the color possibilities? It’s really simple to add/subtract stripes and achieve a different look.
Lets talk yarn
Have you tried Paintbox yarns yet? I only use and recommend yarns that I absolutely love on my blog and I love paintbox yarns. Check out all the color choices here. This is quality yarn at an incredible price. Crochet.com always runs great sales and sends great coupons to their subscribers. You’ll get a 20 % off coupon just for subscribing! And how cute are these little yellow bags? lovecrochet.com sends one with every new shipment. Click here or on the photo to get your Paintbox yarn for your summer striped corner to corner sweater.
This sweater is constructed using four separate panels sewn together up the front, back and each side. My goal was to make a C2C garment using more than just the usual squares or rectangles. I needed triangles to make the batwing sleeves and I needed the stripes to be diagonal.
If you’re familiar with C2C you know that the stitch starts in the bottom right corner and increases by 1 “tile” with every row. Once you have the right length, you start decreasing by 1 tile every row. In the end, you get a square or a rectangle but the rows are worked diagonally. The middle of the square/rectangle is the longest row and it’s the point where you stop increasing and start decreasing.
To get the triangle shape I needed, I simply started working the square and stopped before all of the decrease rows were completed. This created something of a triangle which could then be seamed together with the stripes opposite to one another, creating that beautiful V-stripe.
Because the panel is an “unfinished” square you will end up with jagged edges. Well I have a simple and beautiful solution for those unfinished edges. And I’ve included step by step instructions in this post on how to achieve a straight edge for your sleeves.
However, this genius idea was not mine. I learned this finishing technique from my favorite crochet blogger Jess Coppom of makeanddocrew.com. Jess wrote a book you guys! If you want to know more about C2C crochet, look no further. This book has it all! In- depth instruction on how to read C2C patterns and graphs. Tips and tricks on changing color, increasing, decreasing, borders and more. There are 15 colorful and modern projects included in this book; from pillows and blankets to garments and accessories.
I can’t recommend this book enough for any maker whose interested in C2C crochet. I’m not an affiliate or earning a commission guys, I’m linking to these resources because I really think they are valuable. Simple instructions and beautiful photography, it’s one of my favorite crochet books on the market. Grab a copy from Jess right here. Jess also has lots of great posts and free patterns on her blog, check out this C2C for beginners article here.
Want the Summer striped C2C sweater in a PDF ?
The PDF pattern is for sale for sale here in my Etsy shop.
OR here at lovecrochet.com.
For $3 the paid pattern includes the detailed graph/schematic shown below if you’re looking for some more visuals.
Scroll for the FREE pattern
Finished Measurements Per panel in sizes s (m, l, xl)
Length (before border) – 15.75 (16.5, 17.25, 18) inches – 40 (42, 44, 46) cm
Waist circumference – 27 (30, 33, 36) inches – 68 (76, 84, 91) cm
- Paintbox yarns Simply DK (100 % acrylic), 3-light weight, 100 g (3.5 oz)/ 276 m (302 yards) per ball. 2 (3, 3, 4) balls in champagne white #102 and 1 ball each of color candy-floss pink #149 and mustard yellow #123.
- G + (4.5 mm) crochet hook for main, G (4 mm) crochet hook for ribbed borders.
- Tapestry needle
Create a square swatch that has 6 tiles per side, measure 4 tiles that are in the middle of your swatch to determine gauge.
4 tiles = 3 inches (7.5 cm)
- Model is 5’ 3” tall with a 34” bust shown wearing size S.
- Change color by picking up strand of new color and it pulling through both loops of the last yarn over of the previous color.
- Pattern is written in sizes S (M, L, XL). Begin pattern as instructed for all sizes. Size increases are indicated as additional rows which are noted in parentheses.
- Gauge is crucial for this project. Create a gauge square as instructed above.
- Due to the nature of c2c crochet, adjusting rows for larger sizes will add some additional length to your top and length to the sleeves. You can compensate for the additional length by creating a shorter sleeve and bottom border if needed. Alternatively, create longer borders if you desire more length at the waist. Panel measurements for all sizes are listed above as well as on the graph.
|Ch– chain||Sl st– slip stitch|
|Dc– double crochet||Sk- skip|
|Sc– single crochet||C2C– corner to corner|
|Inc- increase||Dec– decrease|
|Hdc– half double crochet||ScBLO- single crochet in back loop only|
The Corner to Corner stitch tutorial (increasing)
Main panels (make 4 total, 2 front and 2 back identical)
Notes on increasing
*Begin each inc row by creating the first tile as instructed below.*
First tile: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each remaining 2 ch’s. 3 dc and 1 ch-3 sp.
Row 1: With champagne white, work first tile, turn. 1 tile.
Row 2: Work first tile, sk next 3 dc, sl st in next ch-3 space of previous tile made, ch 3, work 3 dc in same ch-3 space, turn. 2 tiles.
Rows 3: Work first tile, (sk next 3 dc, sl st in next ch-3 space of previous tile made, ch 3, work 3 dc in same ch-3 space) 2 times, turn. 3 tiles.
Row 4: Work first tile, (sk next 3 dc, sl st in next ch-3 space of previous tile made, ch 3, work 3 dc in same ch-3 space) 3 times, turn. 4 tiles.
Row 5: Work first tile, (sk next 3 dc, sl st in next ch-3 space of previous tile made, ch 3, work 3 dc in same ch-3 space) 4 times, turn. 5 tiles.
Row 6: Work first tile, (sk next 3 dc, sl st in next ch-3 space of previous tile made, ch 3, work 3 dc in same ch-3 space) 5 times, (change to mustard yellow on last yarn over), turn. 6 tiles.
Row 7-12: With mustard yellow, continue C2C pattern, increasing by 1 tile each row. (change to candy-floss pink on last yarn over.) 12 tiles at end of row 12.
Rows 13-18:With candy-floss pink continue C2C pattern, increasing by 1 tile each row. 18 tiles at end of row 18.
Rows 19-21 (22, 23, 24): Change to champagne white and continue C2C pattern, increasing by 1 tile each row. 21 (22, 23, 24) tiles at end of row 21 (22, 23, 24).
Notes on decreasing
* Each row will decrease by 1 tile per row.
* decreases occur at beginning of row using sl sts rather than making the first tile as in inc rows.
Row 22 (23, 24, 25): Ch 1, sk first st, sl st in each of next 2 dc *sl st in next ch-3 space, ch 3, work 3 dc in same ch-3 space; repeat from* across, sl st in last ch-3 space. 20 (21, 22, 23) tiles.
Rows 23 (24, 25, 26) – 29 (30, 32, 34): Repeat previous row, decreasing each row by 1 tile. 13 tiles at end of row 29 (30, 32, 34).
Finishing the diagonal edge (to create a straight edge)
Finishing Row: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, sl st in next ch-3 space, *work sc, hdc, dc in same ch-3 space, sl st in last ch-3 space, repeat from * across.
Size S ONLY – Fasten off.
Note (sizes M-XL)
*Because your panels are technically unfinished C2C squares, opposite sides are equal in length/width. In this design the armhole length is equal to half of the waist width. For sizes M-XL you will need to make a slight adjustment by adding 1 additional tile after the finishing row. The last tile will add width to the waist without causing the armhole openings to be too wide.*
Sizes M-XL – Add last tile as instructed below.
To add last tile, simply create the finishing row as instructed until you reach the 2nd to last ch-3 space, sl st in ch-3 space, ch 3, work 3 dc in same space, sl st to last ch-3.
- Lay 2 panels flat and carefully align your tiles on each panel so the stripes match up. Using the mattress stitch, sew shoulder panel from armhole to neck, leaving 4 inches un-seamed for neck opening. Repeat with 2 remaining panels.
- To join the 2 halves together, align your stripes and sew from waist up to neck opening. Repeat for back.
- Fold sweater in half at shoulders. Sew side seams, leaving openings for armholes and waist.
Sleeve Borders (make 2)
Row 1: With smaller hook, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. 10 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, scBLO in each sc across. 10 scBLO.
Repeat row 2 until border measures 12 (12, 13.5, 13.5) inches – 30 (30, 34, 34) cm
Row 1: With smaller hook, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. 10 sc
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, scBLO in each sc across. 10 scBLO.
Repeat row 2 until border measures 26 (29, 32, 35) inches – 66 (73, 81, 89) cm
- With wrong sides of sweater facing out, sew the sleeve border evenly around the sleeve opening.
- Sew the bottom border evenly around bottom of sweater.
- Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
- Turn right side out and enjoy.